Piquant, pungent and getting more popular, mustard oil finds new takers

New Delhi: A staple in all varieties of pickle, the distinctive taste in several cuisines, from Bengali fish curry to Kashmiri ‘dum aloo’, and the go-to landscape for romance in many a film with miles of yellow flowers fluttering in the breeze, India’s love affair with mustard and mustard oil is age-old and many layered.

Piquant, pungent and unmistakable in flavour and aroma, mustard oil has been a kitchen essential in many parts of the country. Over the last few years, its health benefits for general wellbeing and for the heart specifically have found new takers. That it is versatile and cost effective are added bonuses.

The growing numbers and its increasing share in India’s total vegetable oil production speak for themselves.

“The production of mustard oil is highest among various vegetable oils produced in the country. Despite being the third highest oilseed produced in the country after soybean and groundnut, high oil recovery of mustard puts it in a premier position in oil production with 27 to 30 per cent share in India’s total vegetable oil production,” said Umesh Verma, general manager of Puri Oil Mills Ltd, manufacturers of the mustard oil brand, P Mark Mustard Oil.

“What palm oil is for Malaysia, olive oil for Italy and soya oil for America, mustard oil can be for India. There is a need to have a vision and a plan for this industry. We request the Central government to establish a Mustard Oil Development Board, along the lines of the Coconut Development Board with focus on higher productivity and value addition of mustard,” he said.

And while the battle of cooking oils is heating up with exotic — and expensive — grapeseed oil, avocado oil and walnut oil joining the already crowded aisles of supermarkets and neighbourhood kirana stores, mustard oil is holding on to its space.

Vandana Thapliyal, a homemaker in her early 40s, for instance, said she reaches out for that bottle of extra virgin olive oil or canola oil for salad dressings every now and then but there is no Indian cooking without mustard oil — at least in her household.

“It started with me watching my grandmother make raw mango pickle with a generous mix of spices and mustard oil. Later, I saw my mother using the tangy, spicy oil for most dishes she used to cook.

“And now I, being my mother’s daughter, by default go for that bottle of mustard oil while cooking, especially when frying or sautéing. So, mustard oil, besides being healthy and tasty, has become part of our tradition now,” she said.

Professional chefs agree.

The pungent flavour of mustard oil adds a unique depth and enhances the taste of various Indian dishes, from pickles and curries to stir-fries and marinades, said Ashish Singh, COO and culinary director of Cafe Delhi Heights.

According to Singh, its high smoke point at around 250 degrees Celsius makes it ideal for high-heat cooking methods like frying and tempering.

“Mustard oil is widely used for sautéing and stir frying in Indian cuisine due to its sharp flavour and high smoke point. It is also used for tempering and ‘tadka’, pickling and making pickle ‘masalas’, marinating, salad dressing, flavouring dishes, baking , cooking curries etc,” he said.

Chef Ravi Kant, executive chef at The Lalit, New Delhi, pointed to mustard oil’s antimicrobial properties, which helps in preserving fried and cooked foods, and its rich culinary history in Indian cooking.

“Many traditional recipes are designed with this oil in mind. Its familiarity and compatibility with regional flavours and cooking methods make it a preferred choice. It is often used in traditional recipes passed down through generations, contributing to its continued use and cultural significance,” he explained.

Besides being liberally used in Bengali cuisine, the oil, according to Kant, is also used in Punjabi (‘sarson da saag’ and ‘Amritsari fish’), Rajasthani (‘kachori’ and ‘gatte ki sabzi’), Assamese (‘masor tenga’, or sour fish curry), Kashmiri (‘rogan josh’ and ‘dum aloo’) and Nepali cuisines (‘aloo tama’ which is potato and bamboo shoot curry), lending the dishes a characteristic flavour and zing.

Kant also talked about the growing international acceptance of mustard oil due to its versatility and unique taste – and how he uses it beyond regional recipes.

“Whether we’re preparing a regional delicacy or adding a fusion twist to a modern recipe, mustard oil is our go-to choice for infusing dishes with a rich, robust taste.

“Today, its use extends beyond traditional recipes – we use it for searing meats, flavouring salads, and even incorporating it into some of our signature continental dishes, offering our guests a truly unique and flavourful dining experience,” he added.

Mustard oil ticks most boxes in nutrition as well.

So, besides the taste and aroma, the anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory properties, which can benefit the digestive system and overall immunity, are some of the reasons that make mustard oil a must for health enthusiasts.

“Additionally, mustard oil has a strong pungent flavour, which adds depth to Indian cuisine without the need for added spices or fats, making meals healthier,” said nutritionist Preeti Seth, founder of Pachouli Wellness Clinic.

She also pointed to the “medicinal and therapeutic value” that mustard oil brings to the table.

“Historically, it has been used not only for cooking but massage and other medicinal purposes such as for cold and cough,” she noted.